Clothing Manufacturing Glossary: 60 Terms Every Founder Should Know

This glossary explains 60 clothing manufacturing terms in plain English, from MOQ and CMT to tech packs, grading, and AQL. Use it when a pattern maker, factory, or supplier says a word you do not know. Terms run A to Z, and we link to longer guides where we have them.

Jump to a letter: A | B | C | D | F | G | H | I | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | W | Y

A

AQL (Acceptable Quality Limit)

A standard used in inspections. It sets how many defects you accept in a random sample before a production lot fails.

B

Bill of materials (BOM)

A list of every fabric, trim, label, and thread in a garment, with where each goes and how much is needed. It is a core part of a tech pack.

Block (sloper)

A basic pattern that fits a standard body shape. Pattern makers adjust a block to create new styles instead of starting from zero.

Bulk production

The main production run after the sample is approved. Quantities, sizes, and colours follow the purchase order.

C

Care label

A sewn-in label with washing and care instructions. It often sits alongside fibre content details.

CMT (cut, make, trim)

A pricing model where the factory charges to cut, sew, and finish garments with trims. The brand usually supplies the fabric.

Colourway

One colour combination of a style. A hoodie in black and the same hoodie in grey are two colourways.

Construction details

How a garment is put together: stitch types, seam finishes, topstitching, and pocket or closure methods. They sit in the tech pack.

Costing sheet

A spreadsheet that adds up every cost of a garment, including fabric, trims, labour, packaging, and shipping, to reach a unit cost.

Cut-and-sew

Making garments by cutting pattern pieces from fabric and sewing them together. It differs from buying finished blanks and printing on them. See textile manufacturers vs cut-and-sew manufacturers.

Cut ticket

A work order that tells the cutting room how many pieces to cut in each size and colour.

D

Deadstock fabric

Leftover fabric from mills or other brands. It is usually sold in limited amounts, so it suits small runs better than repeat orders.

Dye lot

A batch of fabric dyed together. Colour can differ slightly between lots, so order enough from one lot for the full run.

F

Fabric hand

How a fabric feels when you touch it, such as soft, crisp, stiff, or drapey.

Fit model

A person whose body matches your size chart. They try on samples so you can judge fit.

Fit session

A meeting where a sample is tried on and marked up so the pattern maker can fix fit issues before the next sample.

Flat sketch

A front and back technical drawing of a garment, drawn flat and without a body. It shows seams, pockets, and details.

FOB (free on board)

A shipping term where the seller loads goods onto the ship. From that point the buyer carries the cost and risk.

G

Grading

Turning one base size pattern into a full size range by adding or removing set amounts at each point of measure.

Grain line

A line on a pattern piece that shows which way the fabric threads run. It guides cutting so the garment hangs and wears as intended.

GSM (grams per square metre)

The weight of a fabric. Higher GSM means heavier fabric. A heavyweight hoodie usually has a higher GSM than a light tee.

H

Hang tag

A tag attached to a garment, usually with the brand name, price, and style details. It is not the same as the sewn-in label.

HS code

A Harmonized System code. It is an international number that classifies a product for customs and sets the duty rate on imports. See clothing import duties in Canada.

I

Incoterms

Standard trade terms from the International Chamber of Commerce. They say who handles shipping, insurance, and risk between buyer and seller.

Interfacing

A layer of fabric fused or sewn inside parts of a garment, such as collars and waistbands, to add shape and support.

K

Knit

Fabric made by looping yarn together, like jersey or fleece. It stretches and is common in tees, hoodies, and activewear.

L

Lab dip

A small piece of fabric dyed to match a colour you supplied. You approve it before the mill dyes the full order.

Landed cost

The full cost of getting a product to your door: unit cost plus shipping, duties, taxes, and fees.

Lead time

The time between placing an order and receiving it. Each stage has its own lead time, such as sampling, fabric delivery, and production.

M

Marker

A layout of all pattern pieces on a length of fabric for cutting. A good marker wastes less fabric.

MOQ (minimum order quantity)

The smallest amount a factory or supplier will produce or sell. MOQs apply to garments, fabric, and trims. Read our guide to MOQ in clothing manufacturing.

N

Notions

Small supplies used to sew a garment, like thread, buttons, zippers, and elastic. People often group them with trims.

O

Offshore production

Making garments in another country, often to lower unit costs at higher volumes. See offshore vs local manufacturing.

P

Pattern maker

The person who turns a design into the flat shapes that get cut from fabric. Good pattern making decides how a garment fits.

Pre-production sample (PP sample)

A final sample made in the real fabric and trims before bulk. You approve it as the standard for production. See the sample cost guide.

Private label

Garments made by a manufacturer and sold under your brand name. They can be fully custom or an existing design with your label.

Proto sample

The first sample of a style. It exists to find problems in the pattern, fit, and construction, so expect changes.

Purchase order (PO)

A formal order from you to the factory. It lists styles, quantities, sizes, colours, price, and delivery date.

Q

Quality control (QC)

Checks that make sure garments match the approved sample and measurements. QC can happen during and after production.

R

RFQ (request for quote)

A document you send to manufacturers to ask for a price. It lists product details, quantities, and timeline. See what to prepare before contacting a manufacturer.

S

Sales sample

A finished sample used for photos, line sheets, and showing buyers before bulk is made.

Seam allowance

The extra fabric between the cut edge and the stitch line. It gives room to sew a seam and finish it.

Selvedge

The finished edge of a woven fabric that keeps it from unravelling.

Shrinkage

How much a fabric gets smaller after washing. It is tested early so the pattern can allow for it.

Size chart

A table of garment or body measurements for each size you sell. It guides production and helps customers choose.

Size run

The set of sizes made for one style, such as XS to XL.

SKU (stock keeping unit)

A unique code for one product variation, such as one style in one colour and size. It is used to track inventory.

Sourcing agent

A person or company that finds factories, manages orders, and checks quality, usually for a fee.

Spec sheet

A page of garment measurements and tolerances. It is usually one part of a full tech pack.

SPI (stitches per inch)

The number of stitches in one inch of seam. It affects strength, look, and sewing time.

Sublimation printing

A process where dye turns to gas and bonds with polyester fibres. The print becomes part of the fabric, so it does not crack or peel. It works best on polyester.

Swatch

A small piece of fabric used to judge colour, feel, and weight before you order.

T

Tech pack

A document with everything a factory needs to make one garment: sketches, measurements, materials, and construction notes. Read What Is a Tech Pack?.

Textile mill

A factory that makes fabric from fibre or yarn. Cut-and-sew factories buy fabric from mills.

Tolerance

The allowed difference between a target measurement and the finished garment, such as plus or minus 1 cm.

Trims

Parts added to a garment besides the main fabric, like zippers, buttons, drawcords, and labels.

W

White label

A ready-made product that a manufacturer sells to many brands, which each add their own label with little or no change.

Wholesale price

The price a retailer pays you for a product. It sits between your unit cost and the retail price.

Woven

Fabric made by crossing two sets of yarn at right angles, like denim or shirting. It stretches less than knit.

Y

Yardage

The amount of fabric needed for a garment or an order, measured in yards or metres.

Where to go next

New to all of this? Start with What Is a Tech Pack?, then read about MOQ and what a clothing sample really costs in Canada. If you are weighing where to produce, see offshore vs local manufacturing and our guide to finding clothing manufacturers in Canada.

Frequently asked questions

What does CMT mean in clothing manufacturing?

CMT stands for cut, make, trim. It is a pricing model where the factory charges to cut your fabric, sew the garments, and add trims. In most CMT deals the brand supplies the fabric, and sometimes the trims. It lets you compare labour costs between factories.

What does MOQ mean?

MOQ means minimum order quantity. It is the smallest amount a factory or supplier will make or sell. Garments, fabric, and trims can each have their own MOQ. Local studios usually have lower MOQs than offshore factories, which matters when you are testing a first collection.

What is the difference between private label and white label?

Private label usually means a manufacturer makes a product for your brand, either custom or based on an existing design. White label means a ready-made product that many brands buy and label with little change. Terms vary by supplier, so ask exactly what is customizable.

What is a lab dip?

A lab dip is a small piece of fabric dyed to match a colour you supplied. The mill sends it for approval before dyeing the full order. It helps you catch colour problems early, when a fix costs little, rather than after bulk fabric is already dyed.

What is the difference between a tech pack and a spec sheet?

A spec sheet lists garment measurements and tolerances. A tech pack includes the spec sheet and adds sketches, materials, construction details, colours, and labels. A factory can usually quote and sample from a tech pack, but not from a spec sheet alone.